Dobrodošli do Hrvatski! - Welcome to Dubrovnik, Croatia

Looking back at my trip to Croatia this summer will forever bring a smile to my face.  It was everything I expected it to be and more.  With that I will delve in my two weeks of adventure on the southern coast starting with my first two days in Dubrovnik.  Check back to see posts from the remainder of my trip next week.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

I have to give some mad props to Aer Lingus for a very easy flight to Croatia by way of a Dublin layover.  The plane was roomy, clean and the food was surprisingly tasty.  Upon arrival at the Dubrovnik airport we decided to take the shuttle into the Old City for about 35 kuna which drops you off at the main gate.  From there it was a somewhat grueling, uphill walk to our hostel, Fresh Sheets, which is the only hostel within the Old City.  The directions to get there were pretty funny including referencing this sign -

 

Even just this walk through the town shows how small and adorable it is.

 

Turns out that by booking the "two person private room" you actually get put in a nice room in the apartment near the hostel.  It had AC, a comfortable bed and a shared bathroom that was really nice.  It was REALLY hot too so the AC was a welcome relief.  The hostel itself is nice but I highly recommend doing the apartment instead for the AC alone.

 

We only had two nights in Dubrovnik and had arrived early in the city so we figured we should do a little sightseeing (couldn't hurt with getting the jetlag under control too).  So we decided to walk the city walls which surround the Old City.  The walls run uninterrupted all the way around the city (over 6,000 ft) and are really high along the ocean side (over 80 ft).  Most of what you see today was built between the 12-17th centuries and is actually once of the largest and most complete fortifications in Europe today which is REALLY cool.

The ticket to get up there is 70 kuna per person but this also gets you into the fortress and a couple other attractions so make sure to ask.  It's only good for a 24 hour period so buy the ticket when you know you'll have 24 hours to spend at all this places.  We didn't so I felt like our ticket was a little wasted!  The walk along the walls also introduced us to Cafe Buza where you can cliff jump from just below the restaurant.

We decided to make a stop for some beer with limon to get out of the heat.  Once we'd quenched our thirst we headed to Taj Mahal for dinner (recommended by the hostel as a cheap, tasty place to eat).  The restaurant may have an Indian name but the food was Bosnian... and delicious.  I ordered the rump steak because it had a ridiculous name.  It was also ridiculously good.  I couldn't begin to describe it other than if a steak and a hamburger had a baby so I just took a picture instead.

We also had peppers filled with goat cheese which were also really good.

 

This is also where we learned our first Croatian word - "Hvala" which means "Thank you."

Post dinner drinks occurred at Gaffe Irish bar and some other bars up the street.  All of them were pretty terrible so we left and went to bed.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

We were up nice and early to catch our tour  bus for our trip to the Elaphiti Islands which include Sipan, Kolocep, and Lopud.  I think we spent about 250 kuna each on the tour which lasted all day and gave you time to see Sipan and Kolocep and then really spend some time on the sandy beaches of Lopud.  This was the only sandy beach I saw my entire time in Croatia.  They don't mention that it's a COASTLINE not so much a BEACHLINE.  The beaches are really just rocks that border water.  Keep that in mind and bring some aqua shoes.

 

The boat itself was adorable and wooden and filled with an assortment of ages.  We immediately made table mates with two Kiwis from Wellington, New Zealand - Straw Hat and Pelty.  Pelty was so named because his friends had kindly shaved the back of his head into a mini mohawk with one long strip of hair in the middle that reminded me of an animal pelt.  Straw Hat's nickname seems more obvious.

Thanks to the abundance of free, unlimited wine the four of us eventually turned this lovely family boat ride into a booze cruise complete with boat diving from the top level into the refreshing salty sea.  Granted you should first determine where the entrance back on to the boat is before jumping.  We had a time of it trying to pull Lil Sass up the wrong side of the boat which resulted in her almost healed knee wound reopening and a plethora of massive bruises forming down one side of her torso.

 

They also serve you lunch as part of the cruise.  I highly recommend avoiding the fish option like the plague and sticking to the chicken.  Also if you make friends with Joe, the captain, he will sneak you extra cookies - "Fancy a biscuit?"  Turns out you should never steal a table from a table of Russians though.  I kept on eye on them for the rest of the cruise in case they got rowdy.

We returned from the cruise pleasantly jolly and dug into some pizza which looking back at the picture of it I instantly regret eating.  We then hit one of the other bars on the cliffs near Cafe Buza where they had live music (and unfortunately no bathroom).

  

Turns out Dubrovnik CAN be cool.  However, I'm still ready to head out on the rest of our adventure tomorrow.

Sun, Savory Seafood and Late Nights on Croatia’s Adriatic Coast

By James Ullrich

Croatia isn’t the first place most Americans associate with a fun time on a picturesque European beach. They’d be forgiven for thinking that wild nights, sunny beaches and great seafood are restricted to the coasts of Italy or southern France. But Croatia’s Adriatic coast is fast becoming the new beach party hotspot, drawing throngs of young European sun worshipers in search of affordable fun. And where there’s youth there’s no shortage of roaring nightlife when the sun goes down. I’ve found there’s a lot about “Eastern Europe’s Riviera” that’s worth enjoying.

Situated on the warm, blue waters of the Adriatic, the coast of Croatia has been the recipient of great press in recent years. Since the end of the Balkan civil war people from around the continent have descended on the area. Taking advantage of the low prices and warm weather, travelers like me favor the earthy charm of the region over the snootier, pricier locales of the French Riviera and Italy. With the savings, I can afford to stay longer—and play harder—on its picturesque beaches, seafood cafes, and open-all-night clubs.

Dubrovnik, jutting out over the bathtub-warm Dalmatian coast, is a treasure trove of tasty opportunities. Lovely and historic, the city’s cobbles once rivaled nearby Venice for supremacy. Rightfully called “the Pearl of Adriatic Sea”, its ring of thick, imposing defensive walls testify to its former importance. Now Dubrovnik plays the role of a world class city hosting festivals, cultural events, and tourists enjoying its inviting atmosphere, great restaurants, and sunny climate.

Photo of Dubrovnik - Credit: www.all-free-photos.com

Photo of Dubrovnik - Credit: http://www.world-in-picture.com/

Large chunks of the Old Town are now traffic-free zones, making ambling along the winding streets a stress-free experience. I love taking an evening stroll as the aroma of freshly caught seafood snakes through the cobbled lanes. Do yourself a favor and duck into a family-owned restaurant and enjoy some of the local cuisine. Like any coastal area, a rich tradition has evolved as generations of fishermen and local chefs translated their greatest food resource into a tasty art.

Some Croatian favorites include grilled red mullet, savory stews, fresh oyster with lemons, and the amazing shrimp buzara, a sauce of tomatoes, white wine, onions and breadcrumbs. Because of its proximity to other coastal countries, some Croatian fish dishes also carry Italian and Spanish influences.

Many restaurants hug the cliffs jutting out over the sea, affording diners with a breathtaking view of the aqua-blue waters spreading out into the horizon. Local restaurants serving great traditional fare include the laid-back Sesame, the old-fashioned Dubrovacki Kantun, and the popular Rozarij.

Photo of coast from Dubrovnik - Credit: www.all-free-photos.com

Once the shops of Old Town close for the night, revelers come out and the cobbled quarters become the scene of music, drinking and flirting till early morning. Clubs and bars abound along the winding lanes. Some clubs spin middle-of-the road electronica and some cater to a more artsy/underground crowd. Latino Club Fuego and Beach Club Banjo are popular, as is the unique Revelin, located inside the historic Revelin Fortress.

In terms of bars, there are plenty, particularly a clutch located behind the cathedral. Faux Irish pubs are the latest craze, packed with Aussies, Americans and UK partiers—but few locals. Katie O’Connor’s holds the title of Oldest Irish Pub in Town, and is situated in an old stone cellar. Pub Karaka, an Irish wannabe, is popular too.

Be warned: Revelers in Dubrovnik like to up the classiness when they hit the town, so don’t dress in your worn jeans, Nike trainers and unwashed shirt. If you brought some nice clothes, now’s the time to break them out. I feel embarrassed when I show up wearing the same undignified garb I wore that morning. My rumpled Adidas t-shirt and Converse shoes won’t cut it. Neither will yours.

In terms of Dubrovnik accommodations, cheap beds can be found at Vila Micika Hostel and Dubrovnik Backpacker’s Club and Youth Hostel, Dubrovnik. At the other end of the spectrum, plusher experiences can be had at the Hotel Kazbek, Hotel Bellevue, and Hotel Excelsior.

Don’t let an opportunity to visit one of Croatia’s great island experiences pass you by. A 30-minute drive across the causeway from Zadar, Pag Island hosts an interesting mix of traditional culture and modernity infused with the vibrancy brought out by its young visitors. The throbbing night scene in the town of Novalja has led the island to be nicknamed “the Balkan Ibiza” by young Europeans in search of a less touristy experience than its overrated Spanish counterpart. The party begins on the beach and continues through the night at the sweaty, crowded clubs.

Needless to say, afternoon siestas are popular here. Accommodations on the island range from hostels (the well-located Big Yellow House) to nice hotels (Hotel Tony and Hotel Boskinac) to camping grounds for the rustic set.

Once you’re sunburned and partied out, take a couple days to recover because there’s much left to explore. The Istrian Coast is charming, and its main attraction, Rovinj, is an idyllic town worth getting lost in (and you will; the ancient winding streets of its old town core are confusing but picturesque). Split is another great option. Considered Croatia’s “second city’, Split boasts a rich Roman history sharing space with some of the best upscale shopping opportunities on the Dalmatian coast. Try the seafood here. You’ll be glad you did.

Photo of Split - Credit: www.all-free-photos.com

Though still enjoyable solo (you’ll meet plenty of new friends), the region is best experienced with people who share your energy level and interests. Depending on your preference for nighttime activities, you might want to try the romantic/family route (think lovely snusets over the sea) or party it up with close pals who’ll keep your secrets (think Animal House on the beach). Summer is the best time to visit if you’re interested in the beach, particularly July and August. Winter brings shorter days, cooler temperatures, but lesser crowds.

Thanks to the proximity of mountains to the coast, mountain biking and trekking opportunities can be done without much extra travel. Treks can range from the simple coastal walks to complete mountain adventures. In the winter, skiing is hugely popular; the Croatian Olympic center at Bjelolasica is a top-notch facility and draws would-be slalom champs. In the summer, thousands of hard-core kayakers and scuba divers tag team the sea.

For those of you who only have a week or two to spend, I recommend spending a few days in Dubrovnik, scenic Rovinj with a quick jaunt to the island of Havar and then on to Split for a couple more days before returning home.

Photo of Havar - Credit: http://www.world-in-picture.com/

Balmy climate, blue water, and historic cities—at a more affordable price than the better-known alternatives to the west. I’ve found that the popular-again Croatian coast is more crowded every year, but that’s the thing about great places; there’s a reason why they don’t remain a well-kept secret for long.

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Author Bio:

James Ullrich is a thirty-three year-old freelance writer. He recently completed his first novel, a contemporary thriller set in Rome and Prague. When not writing, he enjoys traveling through Europe with a backpack and a journal. He’s currently working on his next novel. He lives in Seattle.